Does Sacred Dining Bug Show Signs Of Waning?
The sacred and the profane of the Berlin dining scene seem to be up for a small debate as critics are getting tired of gimmicks.
Prenzlauer Berg- Bricole, the all “starters” joint serving hors d’oeuvres and cocktails exclusively got some major love from Bernd Matthies over on Tagesspiegel. But the most interesting line of the review has to be:
In the “Bricole” in Prenzlauer Berg there are only starters. What basically means only: small portions. This corresponds to the wishes of many guests who want to try many little things and put no value on mighty main courses. And the Bricole is at least more honest than others who serve similar small portions without comment. -Bernd Matthies-
Well oh well, what dishonest restaurants might Matthies be talking about?
There have been a few murmurs as of late regarding the current “sacramental” approach to modern cuisine. What with singular tubers being sold at exorbitant fees, some other mainstream critics seem to be making slightly underhanded comments regarding the current adoration of this “sacred” approach.
This raises some questions. Is the Berlin love affair sacred dining, steeped in fanatical naturalism starting to wane? Has the pendulum reached its outer edge and now starting to swing back towards the center? Is focus now going to pull away from marketing and towards merit? And finally, who will be the first big critic to vocally shit on the marketing and give credit to the merit?
In any case, Bricole got a killer review from Matthies, check it out here.